WWD Review:
Water — one of humanity’s earliest fascinations and creative inspirations. Carolina Herrera dove in for fall with a collection rich with allusions to the deep blue. “Everything you see here is making waves,” she said during a preview. “Color and shape and movement, the little bouncing skirts. Water has so many situations, no?”
Water has many situations — yes, but Herrera honed in on a few, expressing ripples and waves via jacquards, prints, appliqués, hand-painted effects. Her palette was beautiful, as if focused on the ocean’s shades reflecting light as dusk settles in or dawn approaches, the moodiness tinged with mystery.
Mesmerizing pattern plays found their way into day on floaty dresses and, more subtly, on dresses and suits with curved details — an alligator wave sweeping across a pale wool shift; a blue lamb and fox jacket over a graphite wool skirt. Herrera wisely held back on the overt water works for a needle-punched dress with gradient textures from classic Prince of Wales to soft mohair, and digressed from her primary palette with shocks of red that played felted wool against slick alligator.
There was no such digression at night. Then, the floodgates opened fully with gowns rich with various aquatic-derived splendors, from a sleek techno jersey with printed overskirt to a grand silk gazar “wave gown,” its skirt a cascade of tiers. But some stiff-ish jacquard and weighty embroideries broke the hypnotic allure, and eventually even the beautiful fabric undulation became dizzying, calling for a brief detour to calmer waters.
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